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Doing nothing was never so much fun, but I can't seem to do nothing for more than a day or my head explodes, so I decided that my foot would just have to suffer; Mt Abu had things to explore, and I was bloody well going to explore them. 'I sleep here every night,' he said, pointing to a beautifully constructed pavilion on the top of a tower, the highest point of the palace.Overlooking the lake is the Maharaja of Jaipur's old summer palace, a mouldering old building perched on top of a sheer granite hill. Climbing to the top, I had a view of Mt Abu that was beautiful in the daytime, but which would be simply amazing at dawn and dusk. ' I asked, unable to believe that a man with such a non-end job – looking after a building that's used for nothing and doesn't even see any tourists – could have such a stunning bedroom. It wasn't just the shaggy beard and George Harrison hair that made him look happy, it was his eyes.In developing countries it's rare to feel that people are talking to you on an even keel; either they are slightly in awe of your western status, equating you with overseas luxury and the American dream, or they are middle class, in which case they tend simply to accept your existence and are interested in what you have to say, rather than fascinated by the simple fact that you're talking.

Seemingly biologically attached to each other, you see an Indian holidaying alone; they always come in huge groups, whether with family or friends.Sufficiently off the tourist trail to be almost totally free of westerners, it is instead a haven for Indian tourists.Mt Abu is the honeymoon capital of Rajasthan, itself one of the most romantic states in India, and as a result it's fascinating to someone whose concept of marriage is totally different to the Indian one. Surrounding a small lake, just the right size for intimate boat rides at sunset, Mt Abu manages to combine a pleasantly cool temperature with a complete tourist set-up; ice cream stalls stand side by side with shops peddling sarees and Kashmiri trinkets, cute parks sit alongside piers hiring pedal-boats, and luxury hotels rub shoulders with cheap guest houses, all vying for a lucrative slice of the honeymoon market.What I didn't realise was that my guidebook is utterly useless when it comes to the reality of Mt Abu; it turned out to be one of the highlights of my trip.I did indeed spend my first two days doing next to nothing, just writing letters, resting my aching toe (following my injury in Palitana), eating copious in my room, a bonus in a room costing Rs150 a night), and I revelled in the holiday atmosphere. ' he said, and unable to think of a reason I followed him up to the roof.

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I wandered up there the following morning, just for the view, and soon found myself chatting to the caretaker. I was to come across quite a few other intensely happy people in Mt Abu.